Karibuni Kenya

Sheila had recovered sufficently for us to leave for Kisumu, and Isaac had returned from Nairobi, so we set off to see Isaac’s family in Kisumu.  I already knew them, and had lived with them for several months on my previous trip, but for John and Sheila it was their first time to see their Goddaughter, Isaac’s daughter, Impala.  On the way, we stopped at the tea hotel in Kericho, the home of Kenyan tea growing and an old colonial house now renovated into quite a nice hotel. 

We arrived in Kisumu in the evening, so went to the house and slept before going  down to the shores of lake kisumu and digging into a huge plate of fish and ugali for lunch, again an absoloute must if one is in kisumu.  It is not very expensive but it is very filling, and in general an enjoyable thing to do in Kisumu, especially as there isn’t really that much else there, except a possible boat trip on lake victoria or the bog standard city things.

After spending time with them, we left for Kakamega forest, arriving in the early evening and booking inot a fully contained sort of house/banda.  It was very comfortable, but we didn’t spend much time there, wanting to walk down to the waterfall before sunset.  Again there was a wonderful aray of birds, and a large number of monkeys calling and screaching to another, before we arrived at the waterfall and watched a hamerkop take a shower in the light spray that bounced of the rocks.  It began to get dark quickly, though, so we headed back home. 

After a simple dinner, sleep and then egg and crisps for breakfast (the only supplies we had left), we went for two more walks around Kakamega, admiring the diversity of tree as well as bird life – beside many trees there are signs saying what they are called, based on research that is done in Kakamega.  After a good walk, it was time to leave for Bogoria.

I love Kakamega forest, and it is a very interesting place to visit, except for those who are more interested in big game, it will not be that enjoyable.  However for those who like birds and forests and enjoy a walk through them, it will be enjoyable and worthwhile.  Also, fairly close by is Saiwa Swamp, a tiny reserve, with just a short walk to a viewing platform where one can see the Sitatunga antelope in the swamp and possibly also the rare de brazza monkey.  It all makes for a nice trip, and a slightly different route to the usual big game parks and maasai mara, although it can easily be combined with these things on a longer trip.